Gear

I've only ever used second-hand kayaks. I like stuff that's been tested and that I don't have to be too worried about breaking. The rest is new, but I go for the lower end of gear that can still hold up. If you have the money, splurge on a new carbon kayak with Shimano reels. If not, I highly recommend the setup I've got.

📄️ Clothing

It's warm here, so a pair of boardies is enough for eight months of the year. I'm probably going to start wearing leggings to protect my legs more.

📄️ Kayak

I use a Stealth Profisha 475.

📄️ Lanyards

I've tried just about everything and have realised that the only thing that survives on the ocean is non-metallic. Hence I only use cord and plastic. My lanyards are about 1.5m long and tied together with uni knots so that the length can be adjusted. This is useful because it allows you to keep the lanyard on the rods instead of leaving them on the kayak.

📄️ Lines

We use braid and a 3-4m mono leader at the end. I prefer to use 30lb braid and 50lb mono leader.

📄️ PFD

My PFD is of the brand Sea to Summit. I love everything this brand does.

📄️ Radio

You don't just need it for safety, it's often the only way to be able to communicate with others on the water.

📄️ Reels

We have three popular brands - Penn, Daiwa, and Shimano. I use Penn. They're cheaper, but still very reliable. They also look way cooler than the others! It's probably something I've got from childhood when I saw pictures of these golden spinning reels used to catch big fish. Growing up in Sweden we didn't need any of that.

📄️ Rigs

I started with the classic wire Safa rig. It doesn't always swim right and the last hook is too far forward for my liking (you miss a lot of hits). Then I found Carnster's button rig, but somehow got it wrong and created my own using a top hook instead of a bait spring. I tried the bait spring but realised I preferred the top hook. Then I got tired of attaching led to the top hook so I started using lead that I could simply thread onto the top hook and swap for lighter/heavier weights if needed. Then I wanted to be able to swap hooks out as they wore out and/or to make the rig longer/shorter, so I made the rigs modular. The last thing I've been trialing is to move the weight off the top hook so that I can rig pilchards (sardines) upright, without having to puncture the belly. It's still a work in progress.

📄️ Rods

I use 6'4" carbon rods for trolling and a 7' carbon rod as a spare and for casting on bust ups. I can't go over 7 feet as it won't fit in the kayak and the smaller rods just feel better. I would say 6-7 feet is the ideal size. You definitely don't want to have to setup a two piece rod when you're out there.

Here's what I bring:

• 3 fishing rods with Penn reels and 30lb braid lines, secured with home made lanyards
• Gaff
• Bait, preferably already rigged up
• Sounder battery in Sistema box
• Coffee (600ml) - more important than bait
• Water (750ml), which I rarely drink
• Silicone bag for spare rigs, slugs, scissors, fishing license, microfibre towel (brown).
• Silicone bag for sunnies, spare batteries, headlight microfibre towel (blue).
• Stainless steel long hook remover / pliers (aluminium pliers work but are a bit weak)
• Fish grip for dealing with sharks
• Ikejime fish spike (this thing is amazing, don't use your knife)
• Rust proof knife (anything metal will rust, use ceramic or wash and dry it each time)
• Microfibre dish drying mat to put under fish - to keep it cool and soak up blood (keeping it PG)
• Lightweight jacket if it's cold

That's it. The kayak is heavy as it is. Only bring what you absolutely need!